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Making Internegatives
Virtually all of the color photography I do professionally is on
process E-6 transparency film. Rarely do I have much reason to shoot
C-41 color print films. Usually the only occasions when I do are
weddings (which are not a mainstay of my business) or events where I
know that someone will want a print copy of virtually every photo I
take. Otherwise, I'm shooting with the idea that I'm out to get that
one shot in a few hundred that belongs in a magazine, catalog, or
calendar.
There are, however, occasions when the nature of the assignment might
demand that I produce a photograph worthy of publication - while at
the same time producing tens, or perhaps even hundreds, of prints for
somebody's private photo album. Since the Ilfochrome color transparency
printing process I run is time consuming (and for most folks,
prohibitively expensive), what I do in these cases is shoot to a good
transparency film to start, and I then duplicate these shots on a
color negative film stock that can be easily machine printed at the
corner drugstore. That leaves me the option of handing over the
duplicate negatives and relieving myself of the hassle of all that
printing -- or even dealing with a printer myself. And the holder of
the negative can do all the abusive things to negatives that
non-photographers (and even some so-called "pros") often do to them.
After all, if the duplicates are destroyed, I will still be holding
the original films.
35mm film is actually a pretty easy thing to duplicate, provided you
have the right equipment. In my case, this equipment consists of a
collection of accessories for my workhorse Nikon F3HP camera. In
figure 1, I show the entire rig as it's set up for duplication. There
are essentially four major pieces of the assembly. At the back is the
F3HP body itself. It is bayonet mounted to a PB-6 bellows assembly,
and mechanically speaking, the bayonet mount supports the weight of the
camera body behind it. The PB-6 also has at its base a monorail used
for extending its bellows and a standard 1/4-20 threaded hole for
tripod mounting. The PB-6 is often used for close-focus /
macrophotography work, and in this case, the small object on which
we're close focussing is the 36mm x 24mm image area of 35mm film.
Figure 1 - The Nikon F3 Duplicator Setup
At the front of the PB-6 is the imaging optic itself -- in this case my
standard Nikon 50mm f1.4 AI lens. The lens mounts directly into the
bellows at the front. Note that although the F3HP is not an autofocus
camera, even if I were to use an autofocus camera and autofocus lens,
the bellows assembly would defeat the autofocus features. I have the
lens focused at the shortest distance possible (in this case just under
six inches).
In front of the lens is a PS-6 slide duplicator, which comes with a
holder for a slide or a negative strip and a bellows of its own. The
second bellows is critical, since it's a combination of distances from
the object to the imaging optics and the distance from the optics to
the focal plane of the camera that will determine the image focus as
well as the magnification of the original image. And without the
second bellows, there'd be light leakage onto the image, resulting in a
loss of color saturation and contrast.
The entire rig is focused using the knurled knobs on the PB-6 monorail
and the set screw that holds the PS-6 to the rail. In this case, I've
got magnification set to where the original image almost fills
the F3HP viewfinder. I stop short of a full fill, since I know that
the F-series cameras are very precise in their image coverage, and what
you see in the finder is pretty much what you get. (Other 35mm cameras
tend to be a little sloppy in their finder coverage, and they usually
only show you only 95%-97% of what you'll get on film; so you can
safely fill the frame when working with them and count on the finder's
"slop" to assure that you'll get everything in the original onto the
duplicate. But the F3, by the very nature of its accuracy, is not so
forgiving.) With things set this way, I use a fair amount of the front
(PS-6) bellows, but actually very little of the rear (PB-6)
bellows.
One of the major optical concerns in this setup is keeping edge-to-edge
image sharpness. And this is one of the places where you get what you
pay for when you buy duplication equipment. The fact that the bellows
arrangement shown here allows the use of a real Nikon lens in the
middle helps tremendously. I've tried making internegatives using a
screw-mount "all-in-one" duplicator (which is usually a tub with a
cheap lens in the center of it), and keeping things sharp at the
extreme edges of the photo with such a $75 el-cheapo setup is close to
impossible. The combination of a PB-6 and a PS-6 will set you back
$250 if you find them on the used equipment market as I did, and this
doesn't include the cost of a good lens ($100 used) and an F3HP body
($500 used). But the results are noticeably better when you use a real
lens, real bellows, and a solid metal monorail to keep everything
aligned.
That having been said, you're still best off setting the aperture of
the lens to its most stopped-down position. In spite of the fact that
the 50mm f1.4 Nikon AI achieves its maximum sharpness somewhere
between f5.6 and f8, given depth-of-field considerations at the film
edge, the entire system is maximally sharp at f16.
This makes exposure times long, especially when you consider that the
effective speed of the Kodak Commercial Internegative Film I use for
this purpose is roughly (at least according to my experimental results
- your mileage may vary) ISO 6.
Well might you ask at this point why I don't just use a standard C-41
film that I can find at any drugstore and which would carry a speed
rating of 100 or faster. The answer is that such films are likely to
be far too high in contrast to be useful in this application. Recall
that E6 process films (and in particular the RVP50 emulsion that I
shoot) are extremely color saturated and contrasty. In order to
produce a color negative that's even remotely printable, the C-41
process film has got to be low in contrast and color saturation. As a
practical matter, there are a few slow speed "standard" C-41 color
films that will suffice in a pinch (Kodak Royal Gold 25 comes
immediately to mind). But by-and-large, given the choice, you're
better off shooting a real internegative film, even if it means buying
it in a 100' spool and winding it into its canister yourself. (And it
probably will.)
At this point, the astute reader is probably already thinking about
color drift in the negative due to the internegative film being shot
past the point of reciprocity failure. And the astute reader would be
very correct in his concern. As a practical matter, following the
"Sunny 16" rule, you could expect that ISO 6 film to demand a 1/6 of a
second exposure time. But in reality, even if you point the camera
straight at the sun on a bright, sunny day (and I do, although I
protect my eyes with a set of welding goggles and I'm still damned
careful when I do it), you're not really shooting a sunny scene.
You're shooting through a diffusing glass and a piece of film. So
you're likely to be shooting with exposure times of a second or
two.
As a result, most of the "dichroic filter pack" information provided by
Kodak is going to turn out to be pretty useless. And in reality,
you're going to have to experiment a bit to find the filter pack that
works best for you. This is where having a good reference MacBeth slide
(you do have one, don't you?) is going to make your life a good deal
easier. For this shoot, knowing that I'd be sending my images to
possibly a calendar manufacturer and a magazine publisher, I shot
MacBeth images on location as a matter of course. But even if I hadn't
for those reasons, having foreknowledge that I'd be making
internegatives would have inspired me to make that extra effort.
Figure 2 - A MacBeth Chart on Original and Replicated Films
Figure 3 - The Model on Original and Replicated Films
Figure 4 - The Transparency Image that Went to the Printer
Figure 5 - The C41 Print Made for the Model